Hand-wrought Silver & Turquoise Pin [SOLD]

The Navajo were among the first silversmiths in the Southwest. They were also among the first to set stones in silver.  “Both men and women are passionately fond of silver ornaments,” Lieutenant John G. Bourke wrote of the Navajos in 1881, and “are fairly loaded down with it.” The Navajo would take the money they received from the sale of wool, hides, sheep, and rugs and turn it into jewelry. They melted down the coins they received from the traders to make into silver ornaments. Silver ornaments became an important form of wealth and prestige.

Around 1880 to 1890, the Navajo began experimenting with setting stones into silverwork. Most probably, turquoise was the first stone used. It was available and was ceremonially important to the Navajo. The early smiths polished the stones on sandstone, producing a soft luster that blends with the patina that wear gives to silver.

This pin appears to be an early example of Navajo stone and silver work. It may also be among the first ““recycled” silverwork. It appears that the silver backing, on which the stones have been set, had a previous life. Perhaps it was a manta button and the smith removed the button loop and added a fully hand forged pin and clasp. The turquoise stones have a soft luster as if polished on sandstone rather than the high luster achieved by machine polishing.

It is quite possible that this pin is circa 1900-1910. It is in excellent condition and it appears that the three stones are original to the pin, even though two are slightly green and one is pale blue.